on the Mont Blanc massif
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, Haute-Savoie
Twelve IFMGA guides working out of one office in Chamonix. Two climbers to a guide on rock and ice, and the day decided the evening before, on conditions.
Day 1
Kit check at the office, and an acclimatisation summit before anything is decided.
1 035 m
Mont Blanc by the Goûter

One office, one rope team, since 1994.
You are booked with a named guide, you speak to them before the day, and they decide what is safe — not the office, and not the forecast on your phone.
- 1994
- Guiding from the same office on rue Paccard
- 12guides
- Every one of them carries the IFMGA carnet
- 2to 1
- Climbers to a guide on rock and ice, never more
- 3 842m
- The lift we start from, most mornings of the season
What we run, and what it asks of you.
Grades are the French alpine scale. Ratios are fixed: we never add a third climber to make a day pay.

Cosmiques Arête
Aiguille du Midi — rock and snow
AD−
- Days
- 1
- Summit
- 3 842 m
- Rope
- 2:1
- From
- €480

Mont Blanc, Goûter
Mont Blanc — snow
PD+
- Days
- 3
- Summit
- 4 808 m
- Rope
- 1:1
- From
- €2 150

Vallée Blanche
Mer de Glace — ski
F
- Days
- 1
- Summit
- 3 842 m
- Rope
- 4:1
- From
- €420

Petite Aiguille Verte
Argentière — snow
F+
- Days
- 1
- Summit
- 3 512 m
- Rope
- 3:1
- From
- €380

Argentière couloirs
Argentière basin — ice
D
- Days
- 2
- Summit
- 3 450 m
- Rope
- 1:1
- From
- €990

Haute Route
Chamonix–Zermatt — ski touring
PD
- Days
- 6
- Summit
- 3 796 m
- Rope
- 4:1
- From
- €2 980

Written Monday 15 September, 18:00 by Olivier Rey
- Freezing level
- 3 150m
- Snow line
- 3 000m
- Wind, 4 000 m
- 25km/h
- Grand Couloir
- Quiet
15 Sep
Cosmiques dry and busy from eight. Take the first lift and you have it to yourselves for an hour.
13 Sep
Two parties turned back on the Bosses in 60 km/h wind. The forecast was right; the summit was not worth it.
11 Sep
First proper snow above 3 400 m. Crampons back on for the Petite Verte.
You climb with one of twelve.
Every guide carries the IFMGA carnet and lives within twenty minutes of the office.

Olivier Rey
1994
Four hundred summits of Mont Blanc

Jean-Marc Favre
1994
Trained half the valley's rescue volunteers

Nadia Brun
2004
Sixty crossings of the Haute Route

Camille Berthod
2009
Skis more days a year than anyone here

Sarah Lenoir
2012
Ice, and the patience to teach it

Tom Estève
2019
Most requested for a first summit
